LOCATION: The Crooked Well, 16 Grove Lane, London SE5 8SY [map]
PRICE: £8.75 with side salad garnish and small pot of chips.
BREAD: Glazed, unseeded, slightly sweet bun.
FILLING: Donald Russell beef patty, cheddar cheese (I think), lettuce, tomato and a sort of tomato relish thing (I asked for ketchup on the side).
PROS: The beef had excellent flavour and the patty was a generous size. Bonus points for it coming medium rare as standard. The crisp pickles were nice too, with a good sweet/sharp balance, erring on the side of sweet.
CONS: The bun was a bit stale, had taken on an unpleasant woolly texture and collapsed before I’d finished the burger – the cardinal burger bun sin. The meat was cooked medium rare but not very evenly so, as you can see from the picture. I found the scant smear of tomato relish on top superfluous and the cheese, for me, was wrong; I don’t want to be a Burger Bore but the fact is, I like cheap American cheese in my burger. Perhaps it’s hard for a chef to even consider using processed cheese? I would say to him/her that the best burgers in London are made using slappy yellow slices – at Meat Liquor or Lucky Chip, for example. The ‘cheese’ should be gooey and taste faintly of guilt; a proper cheese like cheddar is too strong – it jars with the flavour of the beef.
I’m sad I didn’t like this burger because Camberwell is just crying out for more decent lunches. For me though, the thinking behind this burger, with its fantastic beef but sad bun and toppings was just a bit, well, crooked.