Korean Chicken Sandwich at Wishbone, Brixton

24 Jun

LOCATION: Wishbone, Unit 12 Market Row, Brixton Market, London SW9 8BR [map]


BREAD: White  sub roll/baguette type thing – I’ll get to that.

FILLING: Chicken thigh nuggets, crushed peanuts, pickled daikon, fermented chilli mayo, shredded Chinese cabbage, spring onions.

PROS: I hurried to Wishbone in desperate circumstances. I was frenzied. Panicked. This sandwich was a special you see, to be plucked from the menu but two days later. As it turns out I wasn’t  the only one to *SPOILER ALERT* like it, and so they’re keeping it on for the foreseeable. YES Brixton! People power!

So what’s all the fuss aboot? Aye? Well, those nuggets  inside are made from thigh meat, which we all know is the way to go when choosing bits of chicken what will be eaten into the face. If you’re not eating a bit that was once sporting bone then it had damn well better be roasted, with crispy skin and a blob of aioli on the side. I’ll take a potato salad with salsa verde too while you’re at it and also some young broad beans; lightly cooked, podded and dressed with a spiky vinaigrette and nuggets of bacon. Ta.

So yes, nuggets. Nuggets nuggets nuggets nuggets. The Wishbone nuggs were succulent and greaseless. Spot on. To be honest though, one would hope Wishbone would have the whole frying of chicken bit down by now, what with being a er, fried chicken shop and everything. The fermented chilli mayo is an appropriately Korean flavoured lube, which is actually surprisingly subtle. Don’t be put off by the word ‘fermented’. Personally I’m drawn to foods that have been shoved in a pot, sealed and left to their own devices for an extended period of time but I can empathise as to why the idea might strike fear into the hearts of nervy eaters. Chinese cabbage, if you’re not familiar, is kind of like iceberg but without the water…no, that’s unfair…it’s like regular cabbage but without the sulphurous twang. An excellent sandwich ingredient (see katsu sando). There are dinky batons of pickled daikon, there are delicate papery rings of spring onion, the crunch of scrunched peanuts. It’s a balanced sandwich and it shows restraint; knowing when to stop is the clincher.

I bet that bread recipe is a well kept secret, too. Wowzers. I dunno who is making it but it’s a goddamn revelation, like a very light baguette, with much of the inside crumb removed to make way for more filling and a sort of polenta-esque sprinkle on top which reminds me of that grainy stuff you get on a Maccy D’s sausage and egg Mcmuff. DON’T PRETEND YOU DON’T KNOW.

CONS: My name is Helen and I am a spring onion addict. I can make sandwiches with big ol wedges of spring onion inside and munch them down happily. I often find myself  dunking whole ones in salad cream by the sad yellow light of the fridge. More spring onion in everything, please? YES INCLUDING TRIFLE.*

SCORE: 9/10

They lose half a point for not having thought of this sandwich sooner and half for the fact I’d like more heat, although I guess that’s why there’s hot sauce on the table.

 *not including trifle.


16 Responses to “Korean Chicken Sandwich at Wishbone, Brixton”

  1. Chris Pople June 24, 2013 at 1:56 pm #

    I think there’s a shop in Soho that sells Korean-flavoured lube, if anyone’s on the search for some.

    • londonreviewofsandwiches June 24, 2013 at 1:57 pm #

      Oh, no doubt. A range of lubes I expect, with the flavours of many different countries.

      • gouchout August 12, 2013 at 2:19 pm #

        Semolina is the not-polenta-like stuff on muffins(Proper English muffins not those cakey things that aren’t muffins really but cakes)

  2. hollowlegs June 24, 2013 at 2:09 pm #

    Phwoar. I like that they went about this without going down the obvious kimchi route.

    I don’t understand your con though… does that mean there wasn’t enough spring onion? (help me helen my brain has died)

    • londonreviewofsandwiches June 24, 2013 at 2:09 pm #

      It means that there was probably enough spring onion for other people, but not for me because I am addicted to them in large quantities.

    • londonreviewofsandwiches June 24, 2013 at 2:11 pm #

      I have made this clearer to avoid any future confusion on the spring onion front…

  3. mawesang June 24, 2013 at 2:20 pm #

    Reblogged this on MaweSang and commented:
    Looks yummmmmy!

  4. Gingle (@ginglesnuff) June 25, 2013 at 10:16 am #

    I had a rather unpleasant meal when I went to Wishbone for the first time, but this sandwich could be the thing to tempt me back!

    • londonreviewofsandwiches June 25, 2013 at 11:07 am #

      Give it another go, Gingle. A lot has been tweaked since they opened…hopefully you will enjoy the sandwich!

  5. Frank H-S June 25, 2013 at 3:28 pm #

    Looks and sounds amazing. I enjoyed the article very much as well. LOL’d a couple of times too.

  6. do try these at home June 26, 2013 at 9:42 am #

    gah I need this. had epic korean chicken in NY earlier this summer and looking for some more non-greasy lovin’

  7. Robert August 7, 2013 at 11:35 pm #

    Two words. Food porn!

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