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Double Candy Bacon & Chilli Burgers at Mother Flipper, Brockley

31 Jan

Let’s start with the Double Candy Bacon Flipper:

LOCATION: Brockley Market, Lewisham College Car Park, Lewisham Way, SE4 1UT [map]

PRICE: £6

BREAD: Glazed, slightly sweet, un-seeded.

FILLING: Double beef patty (from Marsh Produce); slappy cheese; lettuce; onion; ketchup; mustard; CANDIED BACON.

PROS: This is exactly the style of burger that floats my boat. Double patty and gooey American-style ‘cheese’ that stays melty right until the end of the burger. American mustard, ketchup, a sprinkle of iceberg for texture (no other lettuce in my burger, thanks), then that all important candied bacon. Did I mention I like candied bacon? It worked really well as a topping, the salty/sweet flavour serving to intensify the dirtiness of the burger experience. A dirty burger experience is a good burger experience, by the way. There was no weird chutney or silly ‘proper’ cheese or other nonsense. They also use the cloche method (briefly covering the finished burger and top part of the bun with a cloche) to get a nice juicy result.

CONS: The patties were over-cooked, well beyond the advertised medium rare (pic here) but then it’s obvious that these guys have yet to find their stride and I’m sure they’ll get up to speed over the next few weeks. I’m not entirely sold on the beef either; it did have fairly good flavour but was by no means the best I’ve tried. I bought some bacon from the same producer and it let out a huge amount of water when cooked, which makes me doubt their quality somewhat. The beef is the most important ingredient! Still, a fine burger experience and, CANDIED BACON!

SCORE: 8/10

And the Chilli Flipper:

LOCATION: Brockley Market, Lewisham College Car Park, Lewisham Way, SE4 1UT [map]

PRICE: £5.50

BREAD: Glazed, slightly sweet, un-seeded.

FILLING: Single beef patty; Swiss (?) cheese; salad leaves; chilli shreds; chilli chutney; micro shoots; mustard; ketchup.

PROS: This burger just wasn’t for me. The bun was nice though and held up well right until the final bite.

CONS: Having eaten the candied bacon burger, I just can’t understand their change of approach here. The chutney doesn’t work because it tastes overwhelmingly of star anise, which has no place – ever – in a burger. In fact, I really wish people would just calm down and step away from the star anise in general. The cheese melted well to begin with but solidified and became unpleasant after a couple of bites. We’ve been through this before. The leaves were all fancy and therefore pointless because they can’t be tasted in a burger and if they could, they wouldn’t work because their bitterness would be unpleasant. Also, MICRO-SHOOTS? I’m not even going there. There was no real discernable chilli heat. My boyfriend and I had planned to swap halfway through but I took one bite and asked him to gimme back my candied bacon double.

SCORE: 4/10

I feel bad for hating the chilli burger because these guys seemed lovely and can genuinely make a great burger. It’s called the Double Candy Bacon Flipper.

Chargrilled Caulifower Wrap at Mike and Ollie, Brockley

28 Jan

Yes, a wrap is a sandwich. Read my FAQ to find out why.

LOCATION: Brockley Market, Lewisham College Car Park, Lewisham Way, SE4 1UT [map]

PRICE: £5.50

BREAD: Home made flatbread with a touch of orange blossom water.

FILLING: Chargrilled caulifower with crispy garlic and cumin; hummus; red cabbage; rose hip molasses; home made yoghurt; Turkish chilli; toasted seeds; coriander; a little rocket.

PROS: I don’t know where to start because this wrap was just outstanding. The cauliflower was lovely and smoky from char grilling and was packed with garlic and spice. The whole wrap brimmed with wonderful contrasts; silky cooling yoghurt mixed with mild Turkish chilli heat; creamy soft hummus against bits of charred cauli, toasted seeds and sweet molasses. Cabbage added crunch. Coriander, freshness. It’s like a flavour explosion, barely contained within that beautiful home made flat bread, faintly fragrant with orange blossom, warmed through on a hot pan. Mike and Ollie are two chefs who wanted to do something different; they make everything themselves, going so far as foraging for rose hips, fruits, nuts, whatever is in season locally. From what I can tell, Ollie is the behind the scenes foraging guy, while Mike does the cooking and selling. Bloody nice bloke he is, too.

There are meat and fish options available. I tried the spanking fresh mackerel (pictured below) with beetroot puree; crisp apple (fab with the fish); caramelised red onion and rosemary; rocket; home made yoghurt; toasted seeds. This was also brilliant but eclipsed by the cauli.

CONS: I can’t think of any. So why does this get 9 and not 10/10? I suppose the best answer I can give is that, although this tastes INCREDIBLE, it didn’t make me start dancing on the nearest table. I’m not sure any sandwich can ever get a 10 but then, that’s the challenge I have set for myself. It might just be out there, waiting. One day. In the meantime, get your chops around one of these wraps.

SCORE: 9/10